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Features > Food & Wine

UP AND DOWN THE WINE ROADS
Thursday, March 16, 2006

TRIVIA ITEM: You probably have read of the movement to designate Zinfandel as California's state wine. In his book, General Viticulture, published in 1965, Davis Professor A.J. Winkler, who was the dean of viticulture academics in America, wrote, "Zinfandel is not recommended for further planting owing to its defects: irregular ripening, tendency to raisin and cluster rotting."

At that time, there were 25,600 acres planted in California. In 2004, (the last date for which figures are available) there were 50,788 acres planted. Obviously and fortunately, some growers ignored Professor Winkler's advice, and in some people's minds like the 10,000 Zinophiles who attend the Zap tasting at Fort Mason each year, Zinfandel should rank as a noble grape along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

SAD ITEMS DEPT: Barbara Spaulding passed away last week. In 1974, she and her ex-husband, Jim Spaulding, planted a vineyard in the Calistoga area and, two years later, built the Stonegate Winery (now Twomey Winery).

And Ita Young also passed away last week. She and her husband, Tom, who owned our local radio stations KVON and KVYN for many years, were great supporters of the wine industry. I can't think of a wine event that they did not attend. In fact, I once asked Tom if he and Ita really had a home, or did they just go from party to party.

THE LIMEY CHALLENGE: In 2002, a student wine tasting team from Oxford flew to California to challenge a Menlo college team. The Oxford team won by just a sip. (I recall how much I was impressed by the amazing acuity of both team's palates). Last year, the Oxfordites again challenged California, this time a newly formed team from U. C. Berkeley. The result of that competition was a tie...both teams sipped with 100 percent accuracy! On Tuesday, March 21, the tasting team from Oxford University will again appear on our shores to challenge the U.C. Berkeley team. The tasting will be held at the Staglin Family Vineyards. This year, the tasting will be so constructed to eliminate the possibility of a tie.

MUSTARD FESTIVAL NEWZ: The Marketplace, one of the festival's signature events, will be held on Saturday, March 18, and Sunday, March 19 at Copia. It will be an opportunity to taste mustards from all over the world plus craft beers, wines, an array of gourmet foods, and also to view and purchase crafts and art. Visit Mustardfestival.org for info and tickets.

AND SPEAKING OF FESTIVALS: the 2006 Music in the Vineyards festival will be held August 11-27. As in the past eight festivals, the venues for the concerts will be at various wineries in the valley.

And another music festival, Festival del Soleil, is a week-long music festival scheduled for late July at the Lincoln Theater on the grounds of the Veteran's Home in Yountville. The program is still being put together, but rumor is that Rene Fleming, who has one of the most beautiful voices in the opera world, will be singing. Stay tuned.

BIG CHANGES AT NIEBAUM-COPPOLA: The winery will be renamed Rubicon Estate and will focus on the production of $$$ Cabernets. As reported in a previous column,the Coppola brand wines move to Chateau Souverain in Alexander Valley which was purchased last year by Francis Ford Coppola. Also moving will be the museum of FFC's movie career. Too bad, the Niebaum Coppola estate was one of the best tourist attractions in Napa Valley. I suspect that one of the reasons for FFC moving his museum was the restrictions the county put on what the winery could offer besides wine (even sandwiches or light fare were prohibited) Reportedly, a $25 fee will be charged just to enter the grounds. Again, too bad.

PERSONNEL NEWZ:

Craig and Katherine Hall (Hall Winery) have announced that Mike Reynolds has been named vice president and Richard Batchelder has been promoted to the position of winemaker.

The Napa Valley Grape growers is restructuring its administrative staff. Julie Jenanyan will serve in a new position as program coordinator for new projects and Mary Streblow is the new office manager.

The St Helena Appellation group is looking for a PR person to spread the good news about its wines. Call Pam Simpson at 963-1284 for more info.

MISCELLANEOUS ITEM: Rumor is that the restaurant at Meadowood will again open this spring. The chef will be Vincent Nattress who has been rattling the pans at the grill. Before that he was the chef at Roux in St. Helena. The restaurant at Meadowood has been closed for about three years and was rumored to open last year but, at the last minute, plans were changed.

ATTENTION WANNABE CHEFS The 2006 Valley Men Who Cook will be held at the CIA on May 7. Last year, the wine writers from the St. Helena Star and the Napa Valley Register spent six hours preparing skewers of marinated buffalo meat, pearl onions, salad tomatoes and mushrooms. The experience made some of us wonder if digging ditches for a living would be less strenuous. But, for one day, cheffing was lots of fun and the public who ate the Valley Men Who Cook's gastronomic creations had a great time. There is always lots of wine to accompany the food. There also is a silent auction for bargain hunters. Call 963-4456 for info.

CABOOSE ITEM: We are headed for San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, to thaw out our bones from last week in the Sierras. If I don't expire from OD-ing on enchiladas, tortillas, mol, empanadas and throat-scorching chilis, I'll report the wine roads news in the Star's March 30 issue.

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